There's a bunch of characters with different distinct makeup and costumes. The most popular one is this King guy with a green face and a white beard. Apparently he was the first King of Kerala about a million years ago, and a right just ruler he was. Clare and I saw a show when we where here before and i think it was the same story, about an epic struggle against dozing off, but this one was the short 1 hour version instead of the usual 3 hour one, so it wasn't too bad.
The actual story was that some demon transformed itself into a lady to try to tempt the good king, but he discovered the truth so he killed her, basically. Here's a video of the King getting mad:
We also saw the backwaters. It was really relaxing and peaceful. There are all these tiny fishing and rice-farming villages connected by a series of waterways, and they have these houseboats you can take and float along and see the scenery. It was really good.
So I say, if you're ever in Kerala, you do have to see the backwaters, but you can just watch the above Kathakali video and save 100 rupees.
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